Showing posts with label recipe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label recipe. Show all posts

Monday, January 28, 2008

Making Stroganoff

It's been a while since I made beef stroganoff, the last few times, I suspect it was chicken. The problem with using beef, at least beef from Whole Food's is that it's very expensive. By buying any reasonable amount of beef (a little over a pound), I've already made a dish that's ten dollars or more, for a dish that's considered, well, not the highest end.

The few times I've made it, the sauce has been too watery, and nor particularly thick. I used a trick by essentially making roux, but was still moderately unhappy with the results. I decided to follow a recipe from Cooking for Engineers.

Cooking for Engineers is run by one Michael Chu. Most food blogs illustrate the ingredients with pictures, showing step by step what to do. It's funny how, even good cookbooks often lack pictures, and how the average Joe can do something better than the pros.

The standard recipe in Joy of Cooking and also the one in Cooks Illustrated essentially also opt for the roux approach, requiring butter and flour to thicken the result.

Chu takes a different approach, and it works remarkably well provided you don't mind the amount of fat involved. In particular, the recipe from Joy of Cooking asks for 3 tablespoons of sour cream. Cooks Illustrated asks for 1/3 cup (that's about 5 tablespoons). Chu opts for an entire cup! that's 3 times as much as Cooks Illustrated, and more than 5 times used in Joy of Cooking.

However, sour cream isn't all that sour, and I feel that beef stroganoff needs a pretty strong sour cream taste. Plus sour cream is pretty thick, and you can mostly avoid a roux by using a lot more sour cream.

The one drawback of the recipe was the way I made the beef. In particular, it came out pretty hard (it might be the cut of beef I had) and kinda bland. I believe that I should have lightly salted and peppered the beef either prior to cooking, or slightly after.

I'm likely to try it with chicken again, just to see how that works out.

So, the trick, such as it is, is to use a ton of sour cream (one cup) instead of the roux. Oh, Chu also suggest adding a tablespoon of Dijon mustard. Also, a good idea, as it gives a nice mustard tang. Cooks Illustrated opts for a lot of additional ingredients including tomato paste, brown sugar, wine, etc. I might give that a try, but the recipe is more complex (by just a touch) and I hate dealing with tomato paste, because even if I have a tiny can, I only ever use about a tablespoon at a time. I might use it more in my Indian cooking though, since I never seem to get through even a tiny can.

So lessons from this? Get a little less beef. Add salt/pepper to beef to season it.

But it is quite pricey, so chicken might be a better alternative, even if it lacks as much flavor as beef.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Currying Flavor

Oh, punning on the word "curry".

I've decided, given there are a few Indian coworkers, that I'm going to give a hand at making some curry dishes. I've tried cooking Indian food in the past, but usually, to mixed success. Many years ago, when I first tried cooking Indian food, I had no idea what the result should taste like.

I did get some practice because I had a Muslim Indian friend (more Indian, than Muslim, but that is belaboring a point) who often would cook dinner for me and another friend, provided we'd help him cook. This usually meant dicing onions very finely. He was pretty fond of beef, but Indians, at least the meat-eating variety, prefer the meat gets infused with spices. They're very sensitive to "raw" meat taste (or presumably, even cooked meat taste) which Americans, I would guess, are fond of, as they tend to only minimally spice their meats (salt and pepper being this minimal set).

Alas, despite the many times I assisted, I never quite remembered what went in the dishes. Onions, ginger, tomatoes were as much I vaguely recalled, and that it took quite sometime for the meat to take on the flavor of the spices.

Today, I tried a recipe from America's Test Kitchen, which is a PBS show hosted by Christopher Kimball. He's also the editor of Cooks Illustrated, a magazine that looks like other fancy cooking magazines like Saveur, but is really far more pragmatic, and engineering-oriented in its approach.

In particular, these guys don't just give you recipes. They tell you how they arrived at the recipe, having experimented with 10-20 recipes before finally settling on the one they illustrate. Do these always provide the best recipes? Hard to say. But the innovation of this magazine is to make you realize that experimentation is worth the effort when it comes to finding the right recipes.

My brother gave me Season 6 and 7 DVDs of America's Test Kitchen (I suggested it to him that I wanted this series since we've mostly given up on surprising the other person and merely get something they would like). In one of the episodes, they did two curries: Indian and Thai.

You'd think the Indian curry might be more challenging, but the Thai curry was quite complex.

Oh, I suppose I should explain something I've known for a while. There's no such spice as "curry". Curry is an amalgamation of different spices. Indians typically refer to such spices as masala, the most famous being garam masala.

Masalas can be made from up to a dozen different spices. They can be selected from: cumin, coriander, fenugreek, cardamom (two kinds, green and black), cloves, cinnamon (which is mostly for savory dishes, not sweet), turmeric (which gives curry its distinctive yellow color), asafoetida (also known as hing), nutmeg, fennel, mustard seeds. This isn't even hitting chilis and salt! Or "wet" ingredients like ginger and garlic (which they share in common with Chinese cooking).

Most Indian recipes can be rather daunting. The spice list itself can be 8 or more of the ingredients.

I try to find simpler recipes that require maybe 10 ingredients total, and can be cooked in under an hour.

I tried the rudiments of a shrimp curry recipe, but replaced the shrimp with chicken.

Here's the basic outline of the recipe. Take an onion, cut it into slivers (but not diced). Heat oil, and brown the onions, about five minutes. Add tumeric (1t), cumin (2t), coriander (2t), salt (1/2 t), then add 1/2 cup of yogurt, and a garlic/ginger paste (4 cloves, 1.5 inch ginger, food processed with about 1/4 cup water or less). Once this cooks, add cilantro (coriander leaves) and water (a fair bit) and a jalapeno. Sit for 20 minutes. Add shrimp.

I asked Isha for her opinion. She suggested that I mince the onions because slivers wouldn't create a thick consistency (chopped onions can create a thicker consistency). She suggested frying the chiles at the same time as the onions so the spiciness would be sure to be in there. She didn't care for the garlic-ginger puree, preferring to mince them. She also noted that yogurt and tomatoes typically serve interchangeable purposes, in particular, adding a tang to the dish.

I tried part of her advice. I added two jalapenos instead of one, and fried them with the onions. I did the puree only because I was lazy, and for the most part, that was pretty quick.

The problem I ran into? First, the dish wasn't particularly hot. Even with two jalapenos, I found it to be pretty mild. Second, I added a half cup of water, and that made the result pretty watery.

I might try using the food processor to create an onion paste, and give that a try, instead of chopping and mincing. Furthermore, I might try a hotter chili like a Thai chili.

It tasted all right, but still, something was missing.

Saturday, November 25, 2006

More Hot Sour

Thanksgiving Dinner. Turkey. Ham. Stuffing. Mashed potatoes. Sweet potatoes. Hot and Sour Soup.

Really?

I've been living in a house dubbed geek-house for a few years now. The original occupants probably lived there for two or three more years before me.

I'd be willing to bet that in all that time, they never made turkey. At least, for Thanksgiving. After all, Thanksgiving is the holiday most people associate with going home, so I suspect the Americans in the household went home, and the non-Americans didn't make turkey.

This year, I thought I'd have to work. Deadlines, you know.

So I didn't plan to go home for Thanksgiving, which I had done the previous two years.

So this year, I decided to make turkey. Now, I didn't have a particular plan for turkey. I had read some ideas on turkey preparation. Some people suggest baking the turkey upside down. Spice rubs have become popular. Then, there's the recent hot trend of brining the turkey. A few years ago, I had read about cooking the turkey in very low temperatures, around 200 F, instead of say 350. You'd bake it twice as long, and then, say, in the final hour, pump the temperature up so it wouldn't be full of bacteria and such.

I tried brining, but without actually reading about it. Not such a good idea. And I only did it for an hour, instead of the recommended 6-8 hours, so I'm sure the effect was rather minimal.

But what else to cook besides the standard turkey? I had stuffing. I had some potatoes. I bought french-cut green beans. What makes them French, I don't know.

Then, I thought, I could make hot and sour soup. I had made it a few times before, and it seemed pretty easy. Most recipes call for lily buds of some sort, and cloud ears, both ingredients rather difficult to find. They also ask for Asian mushrooms like shitaake, which has become much easier to find in recent years.

I usually get tofu and regular mushrooms and bamboo shoots.

But the key to hot and sour soup? Other than decent broth, it's the vinegar. If you want something that tastes a bit out of the ordinary, but is still quite tasty, get Chiangking vinegar. It's a kind of black Chinese vinegar. I'd get it instead of Chinese black vinegar. The one I bought was simply not sour. I'd pour a cup in, and still the sourness didn't come through. Get Chiangking instead.

I also got pork chops and cut it thin. But really, you should douse it in soy and some alcohol of some sort, say, sherry or some alcohol. I think this breaks down the meat some so it isn't so tough, and darkens the pork from a pale white to a rich brown.

Then, mix eggs with cornstarch (supposed to make the eggs stay together as you cook). Mix, stir, and half an hour later, you have decent soup.